

“Punt it to your friends to bring the toppings,” she writes.

She even has a grown-up recipe for the occasion: gluten-free buckwheat groat pancakes that manage to slip free of the junk-food category. Daunted by dinner? Throw a pancake brunch where everyone flips their own. It’s less confrontational, more a matter of real-world troubleshooting-because Sherman has an upbeat solution for every excuse. In what Sherman calls “pro bono behavioral therapy,” she interviews friends on the touchy subject of reciprocation: namely, why they don’t invite her over. But it’s the section of the introduction called “Tag, You’re It!” that registers as something new, like a breaking of the fourth wall.

The cover was already a clue: Instead of the genre’s expected set-up-gracious host presiding over a well-set table like a domestic fairy godmother-there is a psychedelic still life created in collaboration with artist Daniel Gordon. A few pages into Arty Parties, the second cookbook by Salad for President’s Julia Sherman, it’s clear that this is no ordinary manual for entertaining.
